Tiffany-Anne Parkes, the chef-owner of New York’s Pienanny, makes sweet and savory pastries that chart new territory. Her recent creations include a Jamaican stout custard pie with a black-cocoa pastry crust, and a ginger-curd pie topped with cream-cheese frosting and a cut-out figure, inspired by Kara Walker’s 1998 artwork “Burn,” covered in a layer of vodka-infused watermelon gelatin. We recently spoke with Parkes about the unexpected origins of her bakery’s name, and what makes a great pie.