Inspired by the unrushed pleasures of Milanese cafè culture, Uruguayan-born chef Ignacio Mattos opened the restaurant, bakery, and bar Lodi last September at New York City’s Rockefeller Center. There, head baker and pastry chef Louis Volle, who kneaded his way up from starting the bread program at Dean & Deluca to upstate New York’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns to San Francisco’s Tartine, leads a bread and pastry program that celebrates the age-old crafts of milling and baking. A large stone mill—among the first of its kind in Manhattan and visible through a window on Rockefeller Plaza—grinds single-variety grains, such as wheat and rye, into flour for Volle’s delectable baked goods, which rotate through Lodi’s ovens from morning to night.