The Unexpected Advantages of Wood-Fired Cooking, Explained by Japanese Chef Yoshihiro Imai
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Tucked along the Philosopher’s Path, a cherry tree–lined walk in Kyoto, Japan, that was regularly trod by early–20th century philosophy professor Kitaro Nishida, the restaurant Monk eschews cooking with gas in favor of an ancient alternative that suits its storied locale: the humble wood fire. Owned by up-and-coming chef Yoshihiro Imai, the 14-seat omakase-style space has become something of a pilgrimage for food obsessives, thanks in part to Imai’s already serious chops (before opening Monk in 2015, he was head chef of Japan’s Enboca, a celebrated three-location wood-fired pizzeria where his toothsome toppings included salted plums and white miso paste). On the occasion of Imai’s recently released cookbook, Monk: Light and Shadow on the Philosopher’s Path (Phaidon), in which he details why making food with timber-fueled flames is essential to his restaurant, we asked the chef about what attracts him to his fuel of choice, and how it can be used to delicious, unexpected ends.