For many people who visit Qahwah House, a series of cafés with locations in Brooklyn; Chicago; and Dearborn, Michigan, the drinks they consume are their first experience with Yemeni coffee, which is known for its floral, spicy notes and natural sweetness. The shop, named for the Arabic term for “coffee,” is owned by Ibrahim Alhasbani, who moved to the United States from his native Yemen in 2011, and opened the first Qahwah House in Dearborn, which has a high concentration of Arabs and Arab Americans, six years later.
His aim, Alhasbani says, is to make Yemeni coffee more accessible to the public—and his connections to the beverage run deep. While the coffee plant originated in Ethiopia, by the 15th century—according to early European and Arab sources—it had made its way across the Bab el-Mandeb strait to Yemen, where Sufi monks brewed the plant’s berries into the liquid we know today as a now ubiquitous drink. Trading companies helped the beans reach locations throughout the Ottoman Empire, and into cities including Istanbul, Cairo, Venice, and Paris. By the 18th century, Europeans had started smuggling the seeds out of Yemen, and spreading them to colonies such as Martinique and Java, where people were made to grow them on plantations for little or no compensation. Soon, inexpensive coffee became widely available and, by 1800, Yemen was producing only 6 percent of the world’s coffee.
Miraculously, Alhasbani’s family has owned and operated a coffee farm in Yemen for eight generations. It’s where he sources all of Qahwah House’s beans, which he roasts in-house and prepares using the same recipes his ancestors and family have used for decades. We recently spoke with Alhasbani about his perspective on the drink and its distinctive flavor, as well as how it can be a portal to other aspects of Yemeni history and culture.
When did you start drinking coffee?
I don’t remember exactly, but I must have been a kid. It’s a family tradition. I remember, growing up, the scents and sounds of my mom roasting coffee and grinding the beans at home. I could smell the coffee everywhere. Of course, we drank it black. We didn’t add anything to it. Our coffee and our family originate from the same place: the mountains of Haraz, near Sana’a. Haraz is a big village with multiple small villages inside. We believe our coffee is number one in the world.
How would you describe the taste of Yemeni coffee?
Yemeni coffee has a very special taste. There are a lot of countries that grow coffee—and I’ve tried versions from a lot of them—but Yemeni coffee, because we started the drinking of coffee, is the highest quality, and the most tasty. It has the most flavor out of all coffee in the world. The natural sweetness is akin to chocolate, and fruity. It also has very low acidity, so it doesn't bother your stomach.
Is there a specific or traditional way it’s served?
In the States, many consumers take coffee quickly on the go. In Yemen, the coffee culture is the opposite. It is one of sitting down, relaxing, and gathering. It is a social thing. Friends and family gather at a café and discuss their day, work, or anything else over a large pot of coffee—not just a single cup. It is social. It is ceremonial. It is essentially an experience, not simply a drink to consume.
Tell us more about the origins of coffee in Yemen.
All of the original stories about drinking coffee are from Yemen. The first people to grow coffee were in Yemen. It started in the mid-fourteenth century. Yemen was, for more than two hundred years, the only source of coffee. The first official shipment was to Holland, around 1660. There is a popular blend called Arabica coffee—of course, because Yemen is an Arabic country, located in an area that was once called Arabia.
The country still uses the same natural growing process. When they harvest, they don’t pick the berries when they’re green—the husk of the coffee plant starts out green, then turns to yellow, then to red. When it’s red, it’s the right time to handpick the coffee. After that, they sand-dry the berries until they’re dry, and then separate them from the husk. After that is a process of separating the different sizes of beans, and [rejecting] beans that aren’t good or are damaged. Then, they’re ready to roast. Growing up, I saw the entire process at home, every day, on the farm.
How do you think about continuing this tradition through your work today?
Representing my country, my people, and my coffee is my number one [priority]. What I like about it is that it feels like it benefits not just me, but all of Yemeni culture and Arab culture.
When I’m working, roasting, making the coffee, talking to the customers—this is the best time for me. It makes me really happy to hear feedback from them, which is mostly that they are quite happy with not only the coffee, but also with the idea and style of the business, too. It's building a bridge between different cultures: It’s not just a cup of coffee—it’s a way to tell everyone about Yemeni culture.
Are there other aspects of Yemeni culture that come through your cafés?
We always say that our mission is giving back to the community here in the U.S.A. or back home in Yemen. We support various organizations that provide children with better education, because we believe that education is the foundation for everything. Especially in Yemen, education is not really strong at this time. That’s why we're trying to make sure to speak about it, to grow it back, to make sure that children grow up and have that to support their future and take them in the right direction for them. We try to be a part of the community and to help anyone who needs it.
Atul Kochhar treats curry with care. Instead of confining it to oversimplified variations of green, red, or yellow, thCurry Everyday: Over 100 Simple Vegetarian Recipes From Jaipur to Japan (Bloomsbury), out this month.
Some culinary figures occupy the seemingly untouchable space of greats who prepare dishes as ambrosia. Chef Andy BaraghThe Cook You Want to Be: Everyday Recipes to Impress (Lorena Jones Books).
If you want a cold beer or a glass of wine, Jeremy Le Blanche, the beverage director at Manhattan’s Thyme Bar, is happy to deliver. But ordering either at the space, a 1920s gambling den-turned-21st-century speakeasy, would be a
Jennifer McLagan’s award-winning cookbooks celebrate ingredients that many Western cultures reject or ignore. They include Bones: Recipes, History, and Lore (2005), Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal (2011), and Blood (2019). Far from a marketing stunt, each compendium reflects a topic that McLagan, who grew up in the suburbs of Melbou
When walking down the “ethnic” aisles of mainstream grocery stores, sisters Vanessa and Kim Pham always felt a palpable told Vogue about the experience.
In 1972, the new headquarters for Johnson Publishing Company debuted in the pages of Ebony magazine. Its interior was replete with the design trends of the new decade: a color palette of orange, brown, and yellEbony test kitchen, a groovy, all-electric room that was then considered one of the most modern in the United States. The kitEbony published in its monthly issues, which not only highlighted dishes that their readers should try at home, but also cele
How do you like your insects prepared? For many in the Western world, this question is likely met with a knitted brow. Dsocial and environmental benefits, they co-founded Ento Collective, a health food company with offerings that center around the widely underestimated superfood and protein source.
Evidence abounds for the accelerated aging effects of the past two pandemic-filled years. Recently, however, I caught myself identifyingTroop gummies—bright, fruity drops made from mushroom extracts—I’ll admit to craving more than the suggested one-a-day dose.
What makes a cake a cake? Is it its stately, cylindrical shape? Its spongy texture? Its sugary contents? Whatever preconYip Studio, wants to uproot them. She specializes in naturalistic, rock-shaped cakes that, on first glance, could easily be mistak
About a decade ago, Cassie Winslow, a Northern California–based baker and cocktail-maker who runs the blog Deco Tartelette, started experimenting with edible flowers, concocting condiments such as rose salt and lavender sugar, and incorporatiFloral Libations, which includes instructions for how to make drinks ranging from dandelion tea cinnamon cappuccinos to plum rosewater gFloral Provisions (Chronicle Books), out this week.
In 2001, winemaker Frank Cornelissen bought a vineyard in Sicily, nestled high upon the slopes of Mount Etna, an active
When Kanchan Koya started adding cardamom and clove to her seven-month-old son’s baby food, many moms she knew were shocSpice Spice Baby, a blog that debunks misconceptions around spices and demonstrates how to incorporate them into easy, everyday meals.
Fugetsu-Do, the oldest business in Los Angeles’s Little Tokyo district, specializes in mochi, a popular variety of Japanese sweets made from a glutinous short-grain rice called mochigome, which is soaked overnight, then steamed and pounded into a soft, sticky dough. A mainstay of Japanese festivals and New
Hippocrates, the ancient Greek physician known as the father of modern medicine, affectionately called elderberry his “m
New York chef Patrick Miller became besotted with amari—the Italian herbal liqueurs often served as digestifs—during hisFaccia Brutto—cheekily named after the Italian term for “ugly face”—in 2020, with a distillery in the borough’s Bedford-Stuyvesant ne
At the start of a new year, many of us vow to resist guilty pleasures. This is not the case with the aptly named BrooklyBad Habit, which encourages a strategic embrace of such indulgences.
In Canadian artist Meech Boakye’s hands, fermented cherry and plum blossoms become leavening agents for bread, soil from their backyard transforms intoInstagram documentation of these culinary experiments is mesmerizing, their focus on food is about much more than aesthetics: It’s centered on
The beginnings of Julia Momosé’s deeply patient, intentional bartending practice can be traced back to one fateful nighThe Way of the Cocktail: Japanese Traditions, Techniques, and Recipes (Clarkson Potter), which she co-wrote with food-and-drink writer Emma Janzen. “With a flourish, lemon oils were expresse
As a bartender in San Francisco, a city at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement, Shanna Farrell wondered why the A Good Drink: In Pursuit of Sustainable Spirits (Island Press), in which she documents her travels to bars, distillers, and farms that are forging a more sustainable pmezcaleros who produce the spirit using time-honored traditions that preserve an important part of the country’s culture as well a
Few bite-size foods are as fancy as caviar, with its bursts of salty brine that tickle the tongue. But changing attitudeEp. 53 of our Time Sensitive podcast.) Fortunately for those who still crave the eggs, an ethical alternative—one that’s being increasingly adopted by high-tonburi, the edible, quinoa-like seeds of the summer cypress plant that are sometimes referred to as “land caviar.”
Mead, a medieval alcoholic beverage made of fermented honey, water, and yeast (and sometimes spices, herbs, fruit, or hoconsumption in Game of Thrones), the so-called “honey wine” is making a comeback. According to the American Mead Makers Association, the number of commercial meaderies in the United States has increased more than sevenfold since 2003, and some 200 mea
In Mexico, you might hear the popular saying, “Para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, también,” which suggests that no matter what life brings your way, whether good or bad, mezcal is the remedy to reach for. Mezcal espadín, made from a common agave species with sword-shaped leaves; tobalá, made from a sweet, wild agave that grows in high-altitude canyons; and madrecuixe, made from a rare, finely textured species of the plant. The potent drink is a nationwide Mexican staple and offers significant insight into the country’s roots, with some reci
In 2017, Andrew Carter and Adam DeMartino retrofitted a shipping container on a farm in Brooklyn and began growing mushrSmallhold. They cultivated multiple varieties—sculptural shiitakes, royal trumpets, yellow oysters, and more—in a substrate made
Anyone who has ever been hangry during pregnancy or postpartum knows that not all foods are created equal. “While pregnaMumgry, a plant-based condiment company created specifically with mothers—or mums—in mind.
How can one shape America’s proverbial melting pot? Mayukh Sen, a James Beard Award–winning food journalist and professoTaste Makers: Seven Immigrant Women Who Revolutionized Food in America (W.W. Norton), out next week.
Many of the condiments we know and love—including Tabasco sauce, crème fraîche, and Sriracha—are made using the plodding
While “matcha,” “bao,” and “red bean” have become increasingly familiar parts of the American food lexicon, books on howMooncakes and Milk Bread: Sweet and Savory Recipes Inspired by Chinese Bakeries (Harper Horizon), a detailed guide for preparing a wide range of treats that’s enhanced with profiles of exceptional Ch
For self-proclaimed “fermentation fetishist” Sandor Ellix Katz, fermentation is a subversive act. The age-old process—whSandor Katz’s Fermentation Journeys: Recipes, Techniques, and Traditions from Around the World (Chelsea Green Publishing), out next month. “Like any other manifestation of culture, fermentation practices must be use
After some 100,000 miles traveled, 250 pizzerias visited, and 12,000 individual pies created at a food lab in Bellevue, Modernist Pizza (The Cooking Lab), out this week, a comprehensive three-volume opus dedicated to one of the world’s most beloved foods.
Dimly lit restaurants are no rarity in New York. But at Abigail’s Kitchen in Greenwich Village, reduced visibility isn’t exactly for ambience. Twice a week, chef-owner Abigail Hitchcock offers Dinners in the Dark, for which she blindfolds her guests before they enter the dining space, then serves them a multicourse, seasonal menu
New York’s Hudson Valley has a brewing heritage that dates back to its first Dutch settlers, who made use of the abundan
After working at various five-star restaurants in Europe throughout the 1970s (and for two years, as a private chef in WDaniel Boulud at long last moved to New York City in 1982. About a decade later, in May 1993, he went on to establish his eponymous M
Clunky and often noisesome, coffee grinders typically fall into the category of countertop appliances that most of us stKey, a new streamlined version by Weber Workshops—a maker of well-crafted kitchen tools that was founded by Douglas Weber,
Anyone who’s ever let leftovers languish in the back of the fridge might not be surprised to learn that a whopping thirdToo Good To Go app aims to change that by allowing users to order a “surprise bag” of excess fare from a local restaurant, café, baker
Last March, pastry chef Lauren Tran was furloughed from her job at New York City’s Gramercy Tavern—just four months afteBánh by Lauren, a line of traditional Vietnamese desserts, enhanced with her epicurean flair, that she sold in boxes at pop-ups aroundbánh da lợn layer cakes, crunchy fried sesame balls, and tropical fruit macarons, her not-too-sweet take on the classic French cook
Anyone whose eyes are bigger than their stomach will get a thrill out of the visually beguiling vittles on Instagram acc@chinese_plating, run by Dieter Mackenbach, a Los Angeles–based researcher and educator. Most of the throwback images he posts of plated
Japan is home to only a handful of soy sauce sommeliers—certified inspectors who regularly visit breweries and report on
“We’re not going for authentic Mexican tacos,” says Tamy Rofe, the Mexico-born sommelier who runs Disco Tacos in Brooklyn with her husband, chef Felipe Donnelly, and their partner, Mac Osborne. “We’re going for craveability and d
There’s plenty to love about a hard-wearing cast iron skillet (we’re particularly obsessed with this set by Nobuho Miya for Kamasada, available from Nalata Nalata). But they’re not exactly featherweight—a 1.9 quart version typically weighs in at almostVermicular is shaking up the game with its comparatively weightless frying pan (2.4 pounds, thanks to ultra-thin iron casting at 2
Stephanie Goto thinks about champagne and ice cream in similar ways to how she does design: spatially, materially, and aomakase. Starting July 20 and running through August 10, the seven-course pairing menu—celebrating the release of Dom Pérignon’s by reservation only at Morgenstern’s Sundae Bar, part of its flagship location in New York’s Greenwich Village. (Those wanting to try a sintamago, soy sauce, and dashi, and then she designed an edible experience that playfully reimagines and transforms these ingredtoro burger with a side of soy sauce ice cream and ginger “fries,” paired with a glass of the Rosé Vintage 2006; and a sundadorayaki, paired with the Plénitude 2 Vintage 2003. Here, we speak with Goto about how the exquisitely executed project came to When and how did your relationship with Dom Pérignon begin?
American ranches have increasingly been raising Wagyu, a full-flavored beef swirled with thin veins of fat that’s celebrKnights Valley Wagyu, a company co-founded by real estate developers Adam Gordon and Will Densberger, raising exemplary cattle goes hand in director’s council at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, where he was immersed in the principles of deep ecology:
Sisters Emily and Melissa Elsen experienced the delight of a toothsome dessert at an early age. They grew up in the tinyFour & Twenty Blackbirds, which produces idiosyncratic pies, in varieties such as black-bottom oat and lavender honey custard, that are as distivia Goldbelly.) As summer picnics were beginning to pick up steam, Emily recently spoke with us about the pie she suggests making whe
“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream,” the adage goes, “and that’s pretty much the same thing.” Like watc
Like some insatiable thirst, the global soft drink market just keeps growing, and will be worth a projected $1.4 trillion by 2027. While ubiquitous macro brands still reign supreme, tiny artisan producers are gaining momentum, fueled by consumers wh
For three years, Tokyo-based British journalist Nicholas Coldicott visited approximately four bars a night, conducting rTokyo Cocktails (Cider Mill Press), a collection of more than 100 drink recipes enhanced with stories about the city’s individual cockta
A restored 19th-century brick factory in Berlin’s Mitte district houses Sofi, a craft bakery created by the hospitality company Slow in collaboration with Danish chef and restaurateur Frederik Bil
For nearly 30 years, the family-owned Italian company Illycaffè has engaged leading artists to enhance the act of enjoyiIlly Art Collection, for which various creative minds, such as Marina Abramović, David Byrne, Yoko Ono, and Robert Wilson, take a Matteo Threcent series by graphic designer Stefan Sagmeister, for example, featured a mirror-like finish on each vessel, covering its surface latest addition, created by Chinese artist and activist Ai Weiwei, who adorned espresso and cappuccino cups with bold, graphic paint sp
We’re typically told not to mess with family recipes—but for Paul Eng, an artist and the third-generation owner of a stoleung fan), rice cakes (bak tong gou), and other traditional fare. When Eng’s parents closed the space, in 2017, it was the oldest family-owned tofu shop in
Tucked along the Philosopher’s Path, a cherry tree–lined walk in Kyoto, Japan, that was regularly trod by early–20th cenomakase-style space has become something of a pilgrimage for food obsessives, thanks in part to Imai’s already serious chops (bMonk: Light and Shadow on the Philosopher’s Path (Phaidon), in which he details why making food with timber-fueled flames is essential to his restaurant, we asked the c
Swedish home furnishings giant Ikea has made very clear its grand ambition to become an entirely circular business by 20The Scraps Book: A Waste-Less Cookbook, dedicated to making meals out of the food fragments that we typically leave behind, adds to the effort. There are plenestimates that 30 to 40 percent of the country’s food supply, or about a pound of food per person each day, gets thrown out.
For her thirtieth birthday, some years ago, Antwerp-based food journalist and chef Barbara Serulus received a living, liFizz: The Beginner’s Guide to Making Natural, Non-Alcoholic Fermented Drinks (BIS Publishers). Illustrated with artwork by chef Elise van Iterson, it’s a thoroughly readable guide to fermentation,
Nine years ago, interiors specialist Catherine Pawson saw a real estate listing for a 17th-century estate in rural Oxfor
Not eating meat is no longer a concern reserved for vegetarians and vegans. The damaging effects the factory-farm industthe third-largest greenhouse gas emitter in the world). In turn, the meat-free market is booming. In the United Kingdom, sales of plant-based foods is expected to exceed £1.Rudy’s Vegan Butcher, which opened five months ago in the London borough of Islington, only further suggests that the end of meat is near.
One year on, the Covid-19 pandemic has stress-tested the vulnerabilities of our national safety net, with small business
Puurs, Belgium, isn’t exactly known as an oenophile mecca—yet. That may change now that Valke Vleug, a year-old boutique winery created by former real estate developer Jan Van Lancker and Belgian architect Vincent Van Dsign up for its newsletter, which will announce the wines’ launch date soon.)
The drugstore variety of toothpastes today promise all sorts of benefits for optimizing your oral hygiene: whiter teeth,
Single-use plastics are the epitome of throwaway culture, centered around convenience and profit at the expense of the eAccording to the NRDC, approximately half of the 300 million tons of plastic produced annually worldwide—nearly equivalent to the weight of t
During China’s Eastern Han Dynasty (25–220 C.E.), pu-erh tea was transported along the Ancient Tea-Horse Road, an age-old trading route that once extended 1,400 miles from ChinaCamellia sinensis var. assamica in mountains of the Chinese Yunnan Province—that are roasted, rolled, and dried in the sun. They’re then fermented in osheng pu-erh ferments naturally and matures over many years like a fine wine, while the ripe and earthy shou pu-erh is incubated in a moisture-rich environment that accelerates the aging process, which concludes within a few months. Typ
Jon Gray, along with chefs Pierre Serrao and Lester Walker, form the Bronx-based culinary collective Ghetto Gastro, whose work celebrates their native borough while seeking to elevate its stature within global culture through immersivEp. 2 of our Time Sensitive podcast, recorded in early 2019.) Through imaginative storytelling, experiential activations, and product development for clien
Even if you’re not a sommelier or a wino, there are enough champagne memes these days for you to know that the bubbly faD.M. Brut, a sparkling wine that’s made in the Champagne method—which is to say, fermented in the bottle itself—but with a “BraziObrigado!, making for an apt gift. Sure, Dom Maria’s sparkling wine may not be champagne proper, but we’d happily raise a glass asaúde to a round of this.
Among the sundry forms of comfort we’ve sought during the pandemic, perhaps nothing soothes faster than a piping-hot pizRoccbox can cook a perfectly-crispy-crust Neapolitan pie in just 60 seconds, with its up-to-950-degree oven and cordierite stonRoccbox Wood Burner 2.0, a detachable device that adds oomph to its signature oven, with its ability to reach top temperatures even faster, andOoni Pro, which can be heated with charcoal, wood, or gas, and Camp Chef’s double-walled Italia Artisan Pizza Oven, built to mimic the performance of the wood-fired brick variety (it can also be used to bake bread or roast meats). How
In the United States, the market for fermented tea drinks, including the popular kombucha variety, reached $2.2 billion at the end of last year, and is expected to jump to $6.5 billion by 2026. But all such beverages are not created equal, as exemplified by BrookUnified Ferments, which concocts refreshments that offer a distinctive, and complex yet subtle drinking experience. “Most kombucha is ma
From nuts to oats to rice to hemp seeds to soy, you can find all sorts of alternatives to traditional dairy these days. requires incredible amounts of water consumption to produce). Ditch the supermarket variety of alt-milks, which are often packed with stabilizers and emulsifiers, and make a fresh
Tiffany-Anne Parkes, the chef-owner of New York’s Pienanny, makes sweet and savory pastries that chart new territory. Her recent creations include a Jamaican stout custard pie wi
Sarah Leung of The Woks of Life, the online recipe trove and cultural genealogy she’s run with her sister and parents since 2013, tells us how to make
Despite coffee’s side effects, which can include pit-in-your-stomach anxiety and sleepless nights, caffeine addicts haveaccording to the National Coffee Association, only seems to be growing. But coffee’s not the only way to add some pep to your step. There are a number of tasty alteMud\Wtr, a blend of familiar ingredients (masala chai, turmeric, sea salt, lion’s mane mushrooms, and others) that impart a comDandy Blend actually tastes like a coffee-and-hot chocolate mashup, which is surprising, given that it’s made from dandelion, chicoRasa, a company based in Boulder, Colorado, that offers multiple blends that promote immunity, lower stress levels, and incr
Aymeric de Gironde, CEO of the Château Troplong Mondot estate, located in the Saint-Émilion wine region of Bordeaux, France, grew up working in vineyards—and has never looked
If journeying to Japan feels out of reach—or even impossible, in the midst of a pandemic—fret not. The subscription box Kokoro Care Packages brings the best of the country to you via monthly, quarterly, or one-off parcels, delivered year-round. Noodles, soups,
Summer may have passed, but after the year we’ve had, and the months of isolation yet ahead, maintaining a sense of warmKaginushi charcoal BBQ konro grill. Designed in a variety of sizes, including some large enough to cook a whole fish on, the pared-down appliance sits on binchō-tan charcoal around the ignition device inside, and switch it on to get grilling. It’s not quite the great outdoors, but th
In 1989, friends Deborah Fleig and Linda Tetrault started running the store at Ten Thousand Waves, a spa-centric sanctuaFloating World Artisan Sake Imports to bring Japan’s finest brews stateside. Their knowledge shines through the company’s wide-ranging website catalogue, Akishika Okarakuchi variety, made by just five people at a tiny, 134-year-old establishment nestled in the mountains between Kyoto and OsakMukai, a label run by one of the few female tōji (master brewers) working in the industry today. Libations for more adventurous palettes include Kaze no Mori (“Wind of the Woods”), a floral, fruity, unfiltered sake with a cult following, and a dry, earthy sake from Mutemuka, a brewery in Kochi Prefecture, that’s aged for six months and has a distinctively nutty aftertaste that smacks of cacalist of distributors before holing up for the holidays.
Since opening his first restaurant, Bills, in Sydney in 1993, few people have done more for the global understanding of Bill Granger, commonly (though, he’ll politely say, not necessarily correctly) known as the man who gave the world avocado toast. NoAustralian Food (Murdoch Books), a delicious collection of wholesome recipes including one-bowl meals, chopped salads, and fish dishes. We recently spok Over the last twenty years, you’ve authored ten books—none of which squarely tackle the topic of Australian food. What
As the holidays roll around, gelatin desserts—a festive Thanksgiving staple, cast in extravagant shapes and fantastical Nünchi. Shapes such as five-petaled flowers recur in Park’s delicate, decidedly cute confections, which riff on the Sanrio characters and Morning Glory stationery that filled her childhood. Most of her work falls within a pastel colorway—happy colors, if you will—but she’ll branch
Unimpressed by the snobbery that surrounds the wine industry, writer and sommelier Vanessa Price set out to prove that aIn a weekly column for the New York magazine food and restaurant blog Grub Street, she has aligned Cheetos with Sancerre, barbecue ribs with Côte-Rôtie, and
Omar Sosa, co-founder of Apartamento magazine and Apartamento Studios, has an unfussy love of natural wine. Here, he describes the process of developing a dVivanterre (a riff on the French term for “living earth”), a new line of natural wine produced by Patrick Bouju and Justine Loisea
The award-winning African-American Jewish author and culinary historian Michael W. Twitty got his start in food writing Afroculinaria, as an outlet to document and celebrate the rich cultural histories of African-American fare and the vital role they haThe Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South—not to mention his open letter to Paula Deen, in 2013, that went viral, even as it was left unanswered by the disgraced Food Network host. Reflecting upon his own bsaid in an interview with the Los Angeles Times. “It’s also simply survival—through the mental fortitude of humor, the mental fortitude of memory, and the mental forti@thecookinggene) to keep abreast of what he’s cooking up next: a new non-profit called the Muloma Heritage Center, located on South Carolina’s historic St. Helena Island. Dedicated to educating visitors on African Atlantic culture, c
The human gut microbiome contains up to one thousand species of bacteria that, among many functions, produce neurotransm
In like a lion—and maybe out like a lion, too—summer has passed; it’s suddenly fall. And as our minds wander off to the génépi floral herb, a close relative to the more hardy wormwood, grows in rock crevices and among glacial debris at an altitudForthave Spirits have just produced a version called Yellow, which, like its other offerings (including Red, a botanical aperitif, and Blue, an American dry gin), is simply named Genepy Herbetet, made by Italy’s family-run Distilleria Alpe, is another excellent pick, infused with additional aromatics including or
Ghetto Gastro, the Bronx-based culinary collective working at the intersection of design, art, and social justice, has cooked up a taCRUXGG, includes a range of everyday appliances—a blender, a coffee maker, a toaster oven, an air fryer, and more—with matte-bEp. 2 of our Time Sensitive podcast), have released a rotating double waffle maker, which promises to yield perfectly browned, crisped edges, nooks, and crannies. True to Ghetto Gastro’s mission to igniKnow Your Rights Camp, a campaign founded by athlete-activist Colin Kaepernick. Consider the cookware, designed to be left out on the kitchen
Aishwarya Iyer never thought she would found an olive oil company. At least her background in start-ups and venture capi So Iyer decided to make her own, and launched Brightland in 2018. Using olives from a family-run farm on California’s central coast, the Los Angeles–based company makes extra-v
Sichuan cuisine, named for the subtropical province of China where it originates from, is characterized by a diversity omálà (a portmanteau meaning “numbing and spicy”), is marked by deep and pungent, peppery notes that you not only taste but fethe U.S. considered Sichuan peppercorns to be contraband; nowadays, you can find the little pink orbs in trendy cocktails that play on its citrus and camphor-like aromas. As thThe Mala Market, an online purveyor that stocks top-grade ingredients directly from Sichuan province. Here, in one fell swoop, you can blog of recipes to kick-start your culinary adventures.
Chefs and restaurant owners everywhere have had to rethink their business models this year, as social distancing and new
Several months into the pandemic, the restaurant industry remains among the hardest hit in the U.S., with scant evidenceparticularly those run by BIPOC entrepreneurs, who have been disproportionately affected by coronavirus-related losses—their fates lie directly in continuing sales. Eat Okra app, founded by New York couple Anthony and Janique Edwards in 2016, which gives a boost of visibility to Black-owned b
The 20th-century futurist, theorist, inventor, and architect R. Buckminster Fuller was a tireless visionary and radical thinker who wrote dozens of books and proposed theoretical designs advocating for Synergetic Stew: Explorations in Dymaxion Dining, a collection of recipes and anecdotes originally compiled by Fuller’s friends as a surprise gift for his 86th birthday
Tamy Rofe, a sommelier who owns Brooklyn’s farm-to-table-y Latin American restaurant Colonia Verde with her husband, Felipe Donnelly, operates by a matra borrowed from her mother: “La comida compartida sabe mejor.” In English, it means, “Food tastes better when shared.” From the eatery’s lived-in aesthetic to its signature Sunday general store,” selling and even delivering nearly every ingredient on its menu alongside prepared meals and grill boxes—a way for Co
Lexie Smith is an artist and baker, though it’s only relatively recently, after years of working in restaurant kitchens and balanciBread on Earth. Her work often takes on various forms, from performance and installation to photography, writing, and publishing, all
After years in various kitchens, working his way up from dishwasher to cook, and ultimately chef de partie at Eleven Madison Park, Matt Jozwiak left the fine-dining world behind in 2017 to start Rethink Food NYC, a nonprofit organization that partners with restaurants and grocery stores to reduce excess food and make nutritious, Ghetto Gastro and Jozwiak’s former boss, chef Daniel Humm—as collaborators in its mission to fight food insecurity and foster a more
Extolled by New York City’s finest restaurants, from Daniel to Eleven Madison Park and abcV, as well as a growing coteriDavocadoguy, is seemingly everyone’s go-to guy for the best avocados. He keeps his supply consistently stocked and perfectly ripene
Supermarkets put billions of pounds of perfectly fine, edible food to waste each year for the very silly, Goldilocks reanearly half of all harvested produce is never eaten. The home-delivery start-up Misfits Market aims to right the wrong of this senseless global food crisis, selling only produce that is certified organic, non-GMO,
Marfa may be known as a site of pilgrimage for lovers of minimalist art—its expansive desert sky, open landscape, and ofCooking in Marfa: Welcome, We’ve Been Expecting You (Phaidon). The collection of essays and recipes, featuring local ingredients and dishes, from prickly pear to chicharrón
The idea of “pantry cooking” connotes a sense of resourcefulness—the humble term focused on the shelf lives of whatever Esquire food and drinks editor Jeff Gordinier told us on Ep. 10 of At a Distance, canned food can be every bit as delicious as the fresh stuff, if not exceedingly so. Conservas, tinned seafood products from Spain and Portugal, can last for months, if not years, in the cupboard, but that seems topiquillo peppers stuffed with bonito tuna. Chicken of the Sea, these are not. Fortunately, you can browse and find all sorts of conservas online from grocers such as La Tienda and Chicago’s Wixter Market, and fuel those wanderlust dreams of a trip to the Iberian coast. “The other day I tried zamburiñas,” Gordinier told us on the podcast, with excitement. “Have you heard of that? See, this is interesting. I'm still seeki
First came the sourdough craze; next, homemade cheese. Ricotta, to be specific. Since pandemic times, home cooking has ta recent episode of At a Distance. “For me, it was so wild how far away we had come from that, as a species—the fact that most people don’t know how to htry this recipe), requiring only two ingredients: milk and lemon. Add a bit of patience, which is something we could all stand to pract
Dr. Brian Fisher, an entomologist and curator at the California Academy of Sciences, has studied and identified countless species of antadvocating for an insect-focused approach to nutrition and natural conservation. Here, Fisher tells us why eating insects is a healthy practice for both our bodies and the planet.
Whetstone Magazine Co-Founder and “Origin Forager” Stephen Satterfield on Food, Culture, and Identity
The co-founder of Whetstone magazine and host of the food anthropology podcast Point of Origin, food writer Stephen Satterfield spent more than a decade working as a sommelier before venturing into the world of medEsquire, Food & Wine, New York magazine, and other publications, Satterfield tells us about his role as a self-described “origin forager,” and why the
With Memorial Day weekend behind us, summer has officially begun, and for many home-growers, this signifies the busiest Kitazawa Seed Company, founded in 1917 by a Japanese American family, sells some of the best, and offers more than 500 seed varieties of dento yasai, traditional heirloom varieties of a diverse array of Asian vegetables used in Japanese, Korean, and Chinese cuisines, Browse the extensive catalog to learn about all the delicious varieties, and pick up some recipes for dishes such as sunomono, a simple and refreshing cucumber salad, and kinpira gobo, a savory side of burdock root sautéed in sweet soy sauce.