
Sweet or Skunky? Malaysian Chef Kyo Pang Considers the Polarizing Scent of Durian
The pungent fruit, native to Southeast Asia, is banned on public transportation in Singapore and Thailand.
January 14, 2022
5 minute read
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Royalty rarely inspires ambivalence. Therefore, durian—a large, greenish-brown food that’s commonly referred to as the “king of fruit” in parts of its native Southeast Asia—is predictably polarizing. Its thorny reptilian shell holds a potent olfactory sucker punch emitted by the custard-like flesh inside. The sometimes-sweet, sometimes-skunky, wholly un-fruity odor, which varies based on durian’s species and ripeness, routinely elicits extreme reactions: Its aroma has been compared to nasal offenses including raw sewage, rotting flesh, and a mix of turpentine and onions topped with a gym sock.
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