Lexie Smith is an artist and baker, though it’s only relatively recently, after years of working in restaurant kitchens and balancing creative pursuits on the side, that she wholly fused both passions through her community-based art project, Bread on Earth. Her work often takes on various forms, from performance and installation to photography, writing, and publishing, all centered around bread and its cultural resonances. As New York City went into lockdown this spring, Smith offered to send a free sourdough starter to anyone who requested one, and has mailed out more than 1,000 to date. We recently spoke with Smith, just as she was harvesting her first crop of grains in Upstate New York, about why the humble food serves as an apt vehicle for discussing social, political, economic, and ecological concerns.
When did you start baking bread?
In high school, at around age fifteen, as a way of attempting to find some control over my surroundings and my physical and emotional state, both through what I was putting into my body and what I was doing with my body. And that remains an important part of the baking process for me. I never used recipes, though I read them religiously, as a way of teaching myself how to do it.
Then I went to college, and baked the whole time. I often thought about leaving to go to cooking school, which I’m glad I didn’t do. But baking was always with me, competing for my attention and affection for art, always.
After college, I visited farms in Puerto Rico and Hawaii. I later ended up in Texas. I was writing and drawing, and couldn’t make a dime doing either of those things. So I just did what made sense to me, which was to bake and sell bread at the local farmers’ market. I had a deep, abiding affection for bread, but my relationship to it remained very personal and in its own little bubble. I didn’t know other bakers. I worked as a pastry chef in Austin for a couple of years, but burned out pretty quickly and moved back to New York, and got back into art. Then I started baking for a few restaurants downtown, ended up doing that more than full-time, and stopped working in art and design. It was a bit of hopscotch for a couple years.
At what point did you decide to merge your love of baking with your love of art?
Eventually, I felt deeply underwhelmed and under-stimulated from just working in a restaurant kitchen. I decided, without much forethought, that I had to combine my creative pursuits and my interest in food. So I left the restaurant kitchen—and I got incredibly lucky. I have no other real way of justifying how I’ve been able to pull off baking in a nonconventional setting, for a nonconventional audience, outside of a traditional food establishment. I began making food and sharing it in something of an art context, and was really interested in how people interact and react to food outside of food settings.
You’ve made bread for art fairs and gallery installations, and earlier this spring, as people jumped into homebaking, sent out hundreds of sourdough starters to your online followers. What do you make of shifting cultural values around bread?
I was constantly coming up against resistance to bread and dessert among the privileged elite of downtown New York. People have this thing of, “Oh, no bread. I don’t eat bread.” Which is so Western, and indicative of the immense privilege we have in our choices for what and when and how we eat: to be able to reject a food that has been, for centuries, the basic necessity to so many humans and cultures around the world.
As someone who is interested in the soulfulness and the history of bread, I was concerned and fascinated by that rejection. That was around 2016, which coincided with Trump’s campaign and election. I began to see bread as a unifying force—metaphorically, symbolically—and also as something that represented the abuse by power across cultural, political, and ecological sectors, which we know are often combined. I gave the overall project a name, Bread on Earth, and began intentionally focusing on the history of bread: making it, talking about it, and sharing it in a way that encourages dialogues about how we live now.
Some of your work is performance-based, and projects often take on sculptural, colorful, and complex forms, where you’re treating the dough as if it were clay. When did you begin experimenting with the aesthetics of bread?
On a biological and historical level, bread leads to so many different departure points for conversation, and aesthetically speaking, it’s incredibly rich. It’s naturally malleable. I’m inspired by it, and realized I could get people’s attention by taking this item that’s mundane and so ubiquitous that it’s overlooked, turning it on its head, and making something that’s very basically eye-catching. As soon as I started making bread that didn’t look like what people expected a loaf of bread to look like, they became interested in having a conversation. I love bread, but this is about getting to a place where you can talk about other things.
Food is an incredibly basic but useful tool in considering all these issues surrounding class, education, and even politics. Consider the word “companion.” It means someone you break bread with, but in a deeper sense, it’s also the person that you’re designated to eat the same kind of bread as. At a time in Europe, if you had white flour, it meant you were one of the very few who could afford to have your wheat sifted and be left with this beautiful, pristine white flour. Now, white flour, or white bread, is either seen as a common indulgence or as a cultural synonym for fascism and white supremacy. We don’t often think about it, but the color of bread is always represented in where you stand in the world, what is privileged, and what is valued.
At the start of a new year, many of us vow to resist guilty pleasures. This is not the case with the aptly named BrooklyBad Habit, which encourages a strategic embrace of such indulgences.
In Canadian artist Meech Boakye’s hands, fermented cherry and plum blossoms become leavening agents for bread, soil from their backyard transforms intoInstagram documentation of these culinary experiments is mesmerizing, their focus on food is about much more than aesthetics: It’s centered on
The beginnings of Julia Momosé’s deeply patient, intentional bartending practice can be traced back to one fateful nighThe Way of the Cocktail: Japanese Traditions, Techniques, and Recipes (Clarkson Potter), which she co-wrote with food-and-drink writer Emma Janzen. “With a flourish, lemon oils were expresse
As a bartender in San Francisco, a city at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement, Shanna Farrell wondered why the A Good Drink: In Pursuit of Sustainable Spirits (Island Press), in which she documents her travels to bars, distillers, and farms that are forging a more sustainable pmezcaleros who produce the spirit using time-honored traditions that preserve an important part of the country’s culture as well a
Few bite-size foods are as fancy as caviar, with its bursts of salty brine that tickle the tongue. But changing attitudeEp. 53 of our Time Sensitive podcast.) Fortunately for those who still crave the eggs, an ethical alternative—one that’s being increasingly adopted by high-tonburi, the edible, quinoa-like seeds of the summer cypress plant that are sometimes referred to as “land caviar.”
Mead, a medieval alcoholic beverage made of fermented honey, water, and yeast (and sometimes spices, herbs, fruit, or hoconsumption in Game of Thrones), the so-called “honey wine” is making a comeback. According to the American Mead Makers Association, the number of commercial meaderies in the United States has increased more than sevenfold since 2003, and some 200 mea
In Mexico, you might hear the popular saying, “Para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, también,” which suggests that no matter what life brings your way, whether good or bad, mezcal is the remedy to reach for. Mezcal espadín, made from a common agave species with sword-shaped leaves; tobalá, made from a sweet, wild agave that grows in high-altitude canyons; and madrecuixe, made from a rare, finely textured species of the plant. The potent drink is a nationwide Mexican staple and offers significant insight into the country’s roots, with some reci
In 2017, Andrew Carter and Adam DeMartino retrofitted a shipping container on a farm in Brooklyn and began growing mushrSmallhold. They cultivated multiple varieties—sculptural shiitakes, royal trumpets, yellow oysters, and more—in a substrate made
Anyone who has ever been hangry during pregnancy or postpartum knows that not all foods are created equal. “While pregnaMumgry, a plant-based condiment company created specifically with mothers—or mums—in mind.
How can one shape America’s proverbial melting pot? Mayukh Sen, a James Beard Award–winning food journalist and professoTaste Makers: Seven Immigrant Women Who Revolutionized Food in America (W.W. Norton), out next week.
Many of the condiments we know and love—including Tabasco sauce, crème fraîche, and Sriracha—are made using the plodding
While “matcha,” “bao,” and “red bean” have become increasingly familiar parts of the American food lexicon, books on howMooncakes and Milk Bread: Sweet and Savory Recipes Inspired by Chinese Bakeries (Harper Horizon), a detailed guide for preparing a wide range of treats that’s enhanced with profiles of exceptional Ch
For self-proclaimed “fermentation fetishist” Sandor Ellix Katz, fermentation is a subversive act. The age-old process—whSandor Katz’s Fermentation Journeys: Recipes, Techniques, and Traditions from Around the World (Chelsea Green Publishing), out next month. “Like any other manifestation of culture, fermentation practices must be use
After some 100,000 miles traveled, 250 pizzerias visited, and 12,000 individual pies created at a food lab in Bellevue, Modernist Pizza (The Cooking Lab), out this week, a comprehensive three-volume opus dedicated to one of the world’s most beloved foods.
Dimly lit restaurants are no rarity in New York. But at Abigail’s Kitchen in Greenwich Village, reduced visibility isn’t exactly for ambience. Twice a week, chef-owner Abigail Hitchcock offers Dinners in the Dark, for which she blindfolds her guests before they enter the dining space, then serves them a multicourse, seasonal menu
New York’s Hudson Valley has a brewing heritage that dates back to its first Dutch settlers, who made use of the abundan
After working at various five-star restaurants in Europe throughout the 1970s (and for two years, as a private chef in WDaniel Boulud at long last moved to New York City in 1982. About a decade later, in May 1993, he went on to establish his eponymous M
Clunky and often noisesome, coffee grinders typically fall into the category of countertop appliances that most of us stKey, a new streamlined version by Weber Workshops—a maker of well-crafted kitchen tools that was founded by Douglas Weber,
Anyone who’s ever let leftovers languish in the back of the fridge might not be surprised to learn that a whopping thirdToo Good To Go app aims to change that by allowing users to order a “surprise bag” of excess fare from a local restaurant, café, baker
Last March, pastry chef Lauren Tran was furloughed from her job at New York City’s Gramercy Tavern—just four months afteBánh by Lauren, a line of traditional Vietnamese desserts, enhanced with her epicurean flair, that she sold in boxes at pop-ups aroundbánh da lợn layer cakes, crunchy fried sesame balls, and tropical fruit macarons, her not-too-sweet take on the classic French cook
Anyone whose eyes are bigger than their stomach will get a thrill out of the visually beguiling vittles on Instagram acc@chinese_plating, run by Dieter Mackenbach, a Los Angeles–based researcher and educator. Most of the throwback images he posts of plated
Japan is home to only a handful of soy sauce sommeliers—certified inspectors who regularly visit breweries and report on
“We’re not going for authentic Mexican tacos,” says Tamy Rofe, the Mexico-born sommelier who runs Disco Tacos in Brooklyn with her husband, chef Felipe Donnelly, and their partner, Mac Osborne. “We’re going for craveability and d
There’s plenty to love about a hard-wearing cast iron skillet (we’re particularly obsessed with this set by Nobuho Miya for Kamasada, available from Nalata Nalata). But they’re not exactly featherweight—a 1.9 quart version typically weighs in at almostVermicular is shaking up the game with its comparatively weightless frying pan (2.4 pounds, thanks to ultra-thin iron casting at 2
Stephanie Goto thinks about champagne and ice cream in similar ways to how she does design: spatially, materially, and aomakase. Starting July 20 and running through August 10, the seven-course pairing menu—celebrating the release of Dom Pérignon’s by reservation only at Morgenstern’s Sundae Bar, part of its flagship location in New York’s Greenwich Village. (Those wanting to try a sintamago, soy sauce, and dashi, and then she designed an edible experience that playfully reimagines and transforms these ingredtoro burger with a side of soy sauce ice cream and ginger “fries,” paired with a glass of the Rosé Vintage 2006; and a sundadorayaki, paired with the Plénitude 2 Vintage 2003. Here, we speak with Goto about how the exquisitely executed project came to When and how did your relationship with Dom Pérignon begin?
American ranches have increasingly been raising Wagyu, a full-flavored beef swirled with thin veins of fat that’s celebrKnights Valley Wagyu, a company co-founded by real estate developers Adam Gordon and Will Densberger, raising exemplary cattle goes hand in director’s council at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, where he was immersed in the principles of deep ecology:
Sisters Emily and Melissa Elsen experienced the delight of a toothsome dessert at an early age. They grew up in the tinyFour & Twenty Blackbirds, which produces idiosyncratic pies, in varieties such as black-bottom oat and lavender honey custard, that are as distivia Goldbelly.) As summer picnics were beginning to pick up steam, Emily recently spoke with us about the pie she suggests making whe
“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream,” the adage goes, “and that’s pretty much the same thing.” Like watc
Like some insatiable thirst, the global soft drink market just keeps growing, and will be worth a projected $1.4 trillion by 2027. While ubiquitous macro brands still reign supreme, tiny artisan producers are gaining momentum, fueled by consumers wh
For three years, Tokyo-based British journalist Nicholas Coldicott visited approximately four bars a night, conducting rTokyo Cocktails (Cider Mill Press), a collection of more than 100 drink recipes enhanced with stories about the city’s individual cockta
A restored 19th-century brick factory in Berlin’s Mitte district houses Sofi, a craft bakery created by the hospitality company Slow in collaboration with Danish chef and restaurateur Frederik Bil
For nearly 30 years, the family-owned Italian company Illycaffè has engaged leading artists to enhance the act of enjoyiIlly Art Collection, for which various creative minds, such as Marina Abramović, David Byrne, Yoko Ono, and Robert Wilson, take a Matteo Threcent series by graphic designer Stefan Sagmeister, for example, featured a mirror-like finish on each vessel, covering its surface latest addition, created by Chinese artist and activist Ai Weiwei, who adorned espresso and cappuccino cups with bold, graphic paint sp
We’re typically told not to mess with family recipes—but for Paul Eng, an artist and the third-generation owner of a stoleung fan), rice cakes (bak tong gou), and other traditional fare. When Eng’s parents closed the space, in 2017, it was the oldest family-owned tofu shop in
Tucked along the Philosopher’s Path, a cherry tree–lined walk in Kyoto, Japan, that was regularly trod by early–20th cenomakase-style space has become something of a pilgrimage for food obsessives, thanks in part to Imai’s already serious chops (bMonk: Light and Shadow on the Philosopher’s Path (Phaidon), in which he details why making food with timber-fueled flames is essential to his restaurant, we asked the c
Swedish home furnishings giant Ikea has made very clear its grand ambition to become an entirely circular business by 20The Scraps Book: A Waste-Less Cookbook, dedicated to making meals out of the food fragments that we typically leave behind, adds to the effort. There are plenestimates that 30 to 40 percent of the country’s food supply, or about a pound of food per person each day, gets thrown out.
For her thirtieth birthday, some years ago, Antwerp-based food journalist and chef Barbara Serulus received a living, liFizz: The Beginner’s Guide to Making Natural, Non-Alcoholic Fermented Drinks (BIS Publishers). Illustrated with artwork by chef Elise van Iterson, it’s a thoroughly readable guide to fermentation,
Nine years ago, interiors specialist Catherine Pawson saw a real estate listing for a 17th-century estate in rural Oxfor
Not eating meat is no longer a concern reserved for vegetarians and vegans. The damaging effects the factory-farm industthe third-largest greenhouse gas emitter in the world). In turn, the meat-free market is booming. In the United Kingdom, sales of plant-based foods is expected to exceed £1.Rudy’s Vegan Butcher, which opened five months ago in the London borough of Islington, only further suggests that the end of meat is near.
One year on, the Covid-19 pandemic has stress-tested the vulnerabilities of our national safety net, with small business
Puurs, Belgium, isn’t exactly known as an oenophile mecca—yet. That may change now that Valke Vleug, a year-old boutique winery created by former real estate developer Jan Van Lancker and Belgian architect Vincent Van Dsign up for its newsletter, which will announce the wines’ launch date soon.)
The drugstore variety of toothpastes today promise all sorts of benefits for optimizing your oral hygiene: whiter teeth,
Single-use plastics are the epitome of throwaway culture, centered around convenience and profit at the expense of the eAccording to the NRDC, approximately half of the 300 million tons of plastic produced annually worldwide—nearly equivalent to the weight of t
During China’s Eastern Han Dynasty (25–220 C.E.), pu-erh tea was transported along the Ancient Tea-Horse Road, an age-old trading route that once extended 1,400 miles from ChinaCamellia sinensis var. assamica in mountains of the Chinese Yunnan Province—that are roasted, rolled, and dried in the sun. They’re then fermented in osheng pu-erh ferments naturally and matures over many years like a fine wine, while the ripe and earthy shou pu-erh is incubated in a moisture-rich environment that accelerates the aging process, which concludes within a few months. Typ
Jon Gray, along with chefs Pierre Serrao and Lester Walker, form the Bronx-based culinary collective Ghetto Gastro, whose work celebrates their native borough while seeking to elevate its stature within global culture through immersivEp. 2 of our Time Sensitive podcast, recorded in early 2019.) Through imaginative storytelling, experiential activations, and product development for clien
Even if you’re not a sommelier or a wino, there are enough champagne memes these days for you to know that the bubbly faD.M. Brut, a sparkling wine that’s made in the Champagne method—which is to say, fermented in the bottle itself—but with a “BraziObrigado!, making for an apt gift. Sure, Dom Maria’s sparkling wine may not be champagne proper, but we’d happily raise a glass asaúde to a round of this.
Among the sundry forms of comfort we’ve sought during the pandemic, perhaps nothing soothes faster than a piping-hot pizRoccbox can cook a perfectly-crispy-crust Neapolitan pie in just 60 seconds, with its up-to-950-degree oven and cordierite stonRoccbox Wood Burner 2.0, a detachable device that adds oomph to its signature oven, with its ability to reach top temperatures even faster, andOoni Pro, which can be heated with charcoal, wood, or gas, and Camp Chef’s double-walled Italia Artisan Pizza Oven, built to mimic the performance of the wood-fired brick variety (it can also be used to bake bread or roast meats). How
In the United States, the market for fermented tea drinks, including the popular kombucha variety, reached $2.2 billion at the end of last year, and is expected to jump to $6.5 billion by 2026. But all such beverages are not created equal, as exemplified by BrookUnified Ferments, which concocts refreshments that offer a distinctive, and complex yet subtle drinking experience. “Most kombucha is ma
From nuts to oats to rice to hemp seeds to soy, you can find all sorts of alternatives to traditional dairy these days. requires incredible amounts of water consumption to produce). Ditch the supermarket variety of alt-milks, which are often packed with stabilizers and emulsifiers, and make a fresh
Tiffany-Anne Parkes, the chef-owner of New York’s Pienanny, makes sweet and savory pastries that chart new territory. Her recent creations include a Jamaican stout custard pie wi
Sarah Leung of The Woks of Life, the online recipe trove and cultural genealogy she’s run with her sister and parents since 2013, tells us how to make
Despite coffee’s side effects, which can include pit-in-your-stomach anxiety and sleepless nights, caffeine addicts haveaccording to the National Coffee Association, only seems to be growing. But coffee’s not the only way to add some pep to your step. There are a number of tasty alteMud\Wtr, a blend of familiar ingredients (masala chai, turmeric, sea salt, lion’s mane mushrooms, and others) that impart a comDandy Blend actually tastes like a coffee-and-hot chocolate mashup, which is surprising, given that it’s made from dandelion, chicoRasa, a company based in Boulder, Colorado, that offers multiple blends that promote immunity, lower stress levels, and incr
Aymeric de Gironde, CEO of the Château Troplong Mondot estate, located in the Saint-Émilion wine region of Bordeaux, France, grew up working in vineyards—and has never looked
If journeying to Japan feels out of reach—or even impossible, in the midst of a pandemic—fret not. The subscription box Kokoro Care Packages brings the best of the country to you via monthly, quarterly, or one-off parcels, delivered year-round. Noodles, soups,
Summer may have passed, but after the year we’ve had, and the months of isolation yet ahead, maintaining a sense of warmKaginushi charcoal BBQ konro grill. Designed in a variety of sizes, including some large enough to cook a whole fish on, the pared-down appliance sits on binchō-tan charcoal around the ignition device inside, and switch it on to get grilling. It’s not quite the great outdoors, but th
In 1989, friends Deborah Fleig and Linda Tetrault started running the store at Ten Thousand Waves, a spa-centric sanctuaFloating World Artisan Sake Imports to bring Japan’s finest brews stateside. Their knowledge shines through the company’s wide-ranging website catalogue, Akishika Okarakuchi variety, made by just five people at a tiny, 134-year-old establishment nestled in the mountains between Kyoto and OsakMukai, a label run by one of the few female tōji (master brewers) working in the industry today. Libations for more adventurous palettes include Kaze no Mori (“Wind of the Woods”), a floral, fruity, unfiltered sake with a cult following, and a dry, earthy sake from Mutemuka, a brewery in Kochi Prefecture, that’s aged for six months and has a distinctively nutty aftertaste that smacks of cacalist of distributors before holing up for the holidays.
Since opening his first restaurant, Bills, in Sydney in 1993, few people have done more for the global understanding of Bill Granger, commonly (though, he’ll politely say, not necessarily correctly) known as the man who gave the world avocado toast. NoAustralian Food (Murdoch Books), a delicious collection of wholesome recipes including one-bowl meals, chopped salads, and fish dishes. We recently spok Over the last twenty years, you’ve authored ten books—none of which squarely tackle the topic of Australian food. What
As the holidays roll around, gelatin desserts—a festive Thanksgiving staple, cast in extravagant shapes and fantastical Nünchi. Shapes such as five-petaled flowers recur in Park’s delicate, decidedly cute confections, which riff on the Sanrio characters and Morning Glory stationery that filled her childhood. Most of her work falls within a pastel colorway—happy colors, if you will—but she’ll branch
Unimpressed by the snobbery that surrounds the wine industry, writer and sommelier Vanessa Price set out to prove that aIn a weekly column for the New York magazine food and restaurant blog Grub Street, she has aligned Cheetos with Sancerre, barbecue ribs with Côte-Rôtie, and
Omar Sosa, co-founder of Apartamento magazine and Apartamento Studios, has an unfussy love of natural wine. Here, he describes the process of developing a dVivanterre (a riff on the French term for “living earth”), a new line of natural wine produced by Patrick Bouju and Justine Loisea
The award-winning African-American Jewish author and culinary historian Michael W. Twitty got his start in food writing Afroculinaria, as an outlet to document and celebrate the rich cultural histories of African-American fare and the vital role they haThe Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South—not to mention his open letter to Paula Deen, in 2013, that went viral, even as it was left unanswered by the disgraced Food Network host. Reflecting upon his own bsaid in an interview with the Los Angeles Times. “It’s also simply survival—through the mental fortitude of humor, the mental fortitude of memory, and the mental forti@thecookinggene) to keep abreast of what he’s cooking up next: a new non-profit called the Muloma Heritage Center, located on South Carolina’s historic St. Helena Island. Dedicated to educating visitors on African Atlantic culture, c
The human gut microbiome contains up to one thousand species of bacteria that, among many functions, produce neurotransm
In like a lion—and maybe out like a lion, too—summer has passed; it’s suddenly fall. And as our minds wander off to the génépi floral herb, a close relative to the more hardy wormwood, grows in rock crevices and among glacial debris at an altitudForthave Spirits have just produced a version called Yellow, which, like its other offerings (including Red, a botanical aperitif, and Blue, an American dry gin), is simply named Genepy Herbetet, made by Italy’s family-run Distilleria Alpe, is another excellent pick, infused with additional aromatics including or
Ghetto Gastro, the Bronx-based culinary collective working at the intersection of design, art, and social justice, has cooked up a taCRUXGG, includes a range of everyday appliances—a blender, a coffee maker, a toaster oven, an air fryer, and more—with matte-bEp. 2 of our Time Sensitive podcast), have released a rotating double waffle maker, which promises to yield perfectly browned, crisped edges, nooks, and crannies. True to Ghetto Gastro’s mission to igniKnow Your Rights Camp, a campaign founded by athlete-activist Colin Kaepernick. Consider the cookware, designed to be left out on the kitchen
Aishwarya Iyer never thought she would found an olive oil company. At least her background in start-ups and venture capi So Iyer decided to make her own, and launched Brightland in 2018. Using olives from a family-run farm on California’s central coast, the Los Angeles–based company makes extra-v
Sichuan cuisine, named for the subtropical province of China where it originates from, is characterized by a diversity omálà (a portmanteau meaning “numbing and spicy”), is marked by deep and pungent, peppery notes that you not only taste but fethe U.S. considered Sichuan peppercorns to be contraband; nowadays, you can find the little pink orbs in trendy cocktails that play on its citrus and camphor-like aromas. As thThe Mala Market, an online purveyor that stocks top-grade ingredients directly from Sichuan province. Here, in one fell swoop, you can blog of recipes to kick-start your culinary adventures.
Chefs and restaurant owners everywhere have had to rethink their business models this year, as social distancing and new
Several months into the pandemic, the restaurant industry remains among the hardest hit in the U.S., with scant evidenceparticularly those run by BIPOC entrepreneurs, who have been disproportionately affected by coronavirus-related losses—their fates lie directly in continuing sales. Eat Okra app, founded by New York couple Anthony and Janique Edwards in 2016, which gives a boost of visibility to Black-owned b
The 20th-century futurist, theorist, inventor, and architect R. Buckminster Fuller was a tireless visionary and radical thinker who wrote dozens of books and proposed theoretical designs advocating for Synergetic Stew: Explorations in Dymaxion Dining, a collection of recipes and anecdotes originally compiled by Fuller’s friends as a surprise gift for his 86th birthday
Tamy Rofe, a sommelier who owns Brooklyn’s farm-to-table-y Latin American restaurant Colonia Verde with her husband, Felipe Donnelly, operates by a matra borrowed from her mother: “La comida compartida sabe mejor.” In English, it means, “Food tastes better when shared.” From the eatery’s lived-in aesthetic to its signature Sunday general store,” selling and even delivering nearly every ingredient on its menu alongside prepared meals and grill boxes—a way for Co
After years in various kitchens, working his way up from dishwasher to cook, and ultimately chef de partie at Eleven Madison Park, Matt Jozwiak left the fine-dining world behind in 2017 to start Rethink Food NYC, a nonprofit organization that partners with restaurants and grocery stores to reduce excess food and make nutritious, Ghetto Gastro and Jozwiak’s former boss, chef Daniel Humm—as collaborators in its mission to fight food insecurity and foster a more
Extolled by New York City’s finest restaurants, from Daniel to Eleven Madison Park and abcV, as well as a growing coteriDavocadoguy, is seemingly everyone’s go-to guy for the best avocados. He keeps his supply consistently stocked and perfectly ripene
Supermarkets put billions of pounds of perfectly fine, edible food to waste each year for the very silly, Goldilocks reanearly half of all harvested produce is never eaten. The home-delivery start-up Misfits Market aims to right the wrong of this senseless global food crisis, selling only produce that is certified organic, non-GMO,
Marfa may be known as a site of pilgrimage for lovers of minimalist art—its expansive desert sky, open landscape, and ofCooking in Marfa: Welcome, We’ve Been Expecting You (Phaidon). The collection of essays and recipes, featuring local ingredients and dishes, from prickly pear to chicharrón
The idea of “pantry cooking” connotes a sense of resourcefulness—the humble term focused on the shelf lives of whatever Esquire food and drinks editor Jeff Gordinier told us on Ep. 10 of At a Distance, canned food can be every bit as delicious as the fresh stuff, if not exceedingly so. Conservas, tinned seafood products from Spain and Portugal, can last for months, if not years, in the cupboard, but that seems topiquillo peppers stuffed with bonito tuna. Chicken of the Sea, these are not. Fortunately, you can browse and find all sorts of conservas online from grocers such as La Tienda and Chicago’s Wixter Market, and fuel those wanderlust dreams of a trip to the Iberian coast. “The other day I tried zamburiñas,” Gordinier told us on the podcast, with excitement. “Have you heard of that? See, this is interesting. I'm still seeki
First came the sourdough craze; next, homemade cheese. Ricotta, to be specific. Since pandemic times, home cooking has ta recent episode of At a Distance. “For me, it was so wild how far away we had come from that, as a species—the fact that most people don’t know how to htry this recipe), requiring only two ingredients: milk and lemon. Add a bit of patience, which is something we could all stand to pract
Dr. Brian Fisher, an entomologist and curator at the California Academy of Sciences, has studied and identified countless species of antadvocating for an insect-focused approach to nutrition and natural conservation. Here, Fisher tells us why eating insects is a healthy practice for both our bodies and the planet.
Whetstone Magazine Co-Founder and “Origin Forager” Stephen Satterfield on Food, Culture, and Identity
The co-founder of Whetstone magazine and host of the food anthropology podcast Point of Origin, food writer Stephen Satterfield spent more than a decade working as a sommelier before venturing into the world of medEsquire, Food & Wine, New York magazine, and other publications, Satterfield tells us about his role as a self-described “origin forager,” and why the
With Memorial Day weekend behind us, summer has officially begun, and for many home-growers, this signifies the busiest Kitazawa Seed Company, founded in 1917 by a Japanese American family, sells some of the best, and offers more than 500 seed varieties of dento yasai, traditional heirloom varieties of a diverse array of Asian vegetables used in Japanese, Korean, and Chinese cuisines, Browse the extensive catalog to learn about all the delicious varieties, and pick up some recipes for dishes such as sunomono, a simple and refreshing cucumber salad, and kinpira gobo, a savory side of burdock root sautéed in sweet soy sauce.
Thirty to forty percent of perfectly good, fresh produce grown in the U.S. goes to waste each year simply due to bruisinTerroir in a Jar, a company with a serious mission to reduce food waste and put profits back into the hands of growers.
As the in-house chef for Vitsœ—the midcentury furniture manufacturer that’s been producing Dieter Rams designs since 1959—Will Leigh is a fixture who famous 606 modular shelving. Though much of the Vitsœ team has been working remotely these past several weeks, Leigh, along with a dozen or so esse
As we enter yet another week of social distancing in many cities throughout the U.S., home cooking, it seems, is here toGreat Jones, the direct-to-consumer startup co-founded by Grub Street alum Sierra Tishgart, makes a beautiful enamel cast-iron versThe Dutchess, in a range of cheery colors to brighten any kitchen drudgery. For the more minimalist or solo cook looking to save spaAlways Pan from Our Place is an ideal starter piece, with a ceramic non-stick coating and various nesting accessories that give it a multifunctioMisen’s durable seven-piece cookware set, designed by the Brooklyn studio Visibility, offers a clean, no-nonsense take, with ergonomic handles designed for comf
The ongoing Covid-19 closures have brought the unimaginable to so many local and small businesses across the country andFamily Meal, a site and Instagram account of recipe cards featuring dishes from their favorite local restaurants. All are available for download, with suggested bagna cauda from Popina, challah from The Lighthouse, and lou rou fan from Win Son.
Between homeschooling, working from home, and/or cooking at home more than ever, many of us are spending our days stayinan automated, open-source system called FarmBot that’s been slowly cultivating a fan base of users online. Controlled using an app, and assembled from a kit of parts, t
Daytime drinking is on the up—hey, it’s 5 p.m. somewhere (not that we can keep track of time these days, though the #HandMarkingTime Stories on our @slowdown.tv Instagram at least help us remember which day of the month it is). But if you prefer not to risk getting a hangover, or weakeningDram Apothecary makes a version of the increasingly popular drink in a range of flavors, such as cardamom and black tea, using CBD extrWild Mountain Sage) and switchels, as well as a set of CBD tinctures that you can either drop directly on your tongue, or add to any drink
The ongoing Covid-19 crisis has put a sudden and massive halt on the restaurant industry: Bars, small businesses, mega-c“morbidly high business death rate.” (There’s an episode of our At a Distance podcast on this very subject with Esquire food and drinks editor Jeff Gordinier coming out soon.) As wholesale restaurant suppliers now find their client bases on
As people everywhere settle into new home-cooking routines, finding resourceful ways to make their pantry goods stretch victory garden. Luckily for apartment dwellers without a backyard or access to much green space (more than half the world, basically), all you need is a corner of a countertop to grow some fresh herbs indoors. Better still, and for the botanEdn. The company makes wifi-controlled kits that come with a built-in LED grow light; simple seed pods for no-fuss, soillesSmall Garden order placed—a welcome reminder, in these uncertain times, that your efforts to stay indoors can make a difference for
Self-quarantine and social distancing in the age of the coronavirus are not to be taken lightly, and if, like us, you’refor your own safety and for the safety of others—you may be asking yourself what to stock your pantries with. Add to cart: DADA Daily, a line of tasty and healthy snacks that are neither heavy-handedly survivalist nor overprocessed and, not to mention, so don’t be that bulk-buying, toilet paper-stockpiling jerk.
As the daughter of Slow Food pioneer and Chez Panisse founder Alice Waters, Fanny Singer has had her share of Proustian Always Home: A Daughter’s Recipes and Stories (Alfred A. Knopf), offers a warm and sensorial portrait of her mother, and of an upbringing that often revolved around
Dimes, the all-day café, bar, and market founded by Sabrina De Sousa and Alissa Wagner in downtown Manhattan, has always doneDimes Times: Emotional Eating (Karma Books)—which she says is the first in a series of more publications to come.
Rich Shih, founder of the blog Our Cook Quest and co-author of the forthcoming book Koji Alchemy: Rediscovering the Magic of Mold-Based Fermentation, is a self-taught cook and fermentation expert who makes everything from takuan pickles to fish sauce from scratch, twekoji, the source of umami in fermented ingredients like miso, soy sauce, mirin, and more.
South Korean cinema has been on everyone’s lips this week, in the afterglow of director Bong Joon-ho’s triumphant OscarsParasite, the grand finale to a months-long award spree that began with a Palme d’Or win at the Cannes Film Festival last year. making history in more ways than one. By his second acceptance speech, Bong, whose reactions were being duly memed, was ready to hit the bar. His exact words: “I’m ready to drink now, until the morning.” A total mood.
Zach Mangan, founder of the specialty Japanese tea importer, gallery, and café Kettl, tells us what to look, smell, and taste for in a top-quality matcha.